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© Broadland Memories 2006-2026

Page  1, 2, 3, 4

Part 2

Tuesday June 23rd 1914

Yarmouth to Oulton Broad – Lowestoft

2 An early start was made this morning, to catch the tide, and credit must be given to ‘Erb, the “early riser” of the party, for rousing our skipper at 4.15. We soon got underway, and altho’ not much sun this part of our journey was intensely interesting, many of the surrounding landmarks being pointed out by our skipper.  Many of the reaches gave our Skipper opportunities to shew his skill in handling the yacht, his tacking at times been quite clever.  We at length left difficulties of this kind behind, and bowled along quite merrily until Oulton Broad was reached about 12.30.  Here we moored, and shortly afterwards did full justice to our lunch.  Being quite close to Lowestoft we took a train (1 ½ d ride) to visit this well-known seaside resort, but, as in the case of Yarmouth, we were not impressed.  Bert, who had visited the place about 18 years ago, from his intimate (?) knowledge of the place, naturally shepherded the party, but alas, he led his sheep astray, and they wandered in the wilderness of the least picturesque part of the town, instead of looking smart yachtsman promenading the front.  We were eventually taken in hand by an Ancient Mariner, but I must not omit to state that before placing ourselves under his guidance we had to traverse a considerable distance, a portion of which was on the Seawall.

After proceeding some distance it was discovered that ‘Erb, in taking his position, strained a certain portion of his attire, with the result that, as Bert factiously put it, “his rent was in (ar) rears.” An immediate operation was deemed necessary, and with the aid of two safety pins this was successfully accomplished by Pa.  We now proceeded on our way which had to be resumed in the boat of the aforesaid mariner.  By this means we obtained a view of the Harbour, shipping, fish-markets etc.  The front being commonplace and uninteresting we returned by an early train, glad to get back to our cosy little saloon to enjoy a cup of tea.

The evening programme was somewhat varied, and instead of the usual feast of song and glee etc. we had selections on the gramophone, followed by a quiet (?) game of cards.  After such a long day we were all glad to retire. We earned a night’s repose and got it.

  2  Pa, who writes the log for Tuesday, is unable to give the reader a description of Breydon Water, the Broad through which we passed on leaving Yarmouth, as he was the only member of the party who stayed in bed.  However, he will have an opportunity, on the return from Norwich, to see it, (providing he gets out in time).

Breydon, being near the sea, is practically salt water.  It is large in extent but very shallow, except where the boat course is kept clear.  As a rule the wind is very strong, and Herons abound.

Marginal Note

This is not altogether absolutely correct, for about 8 o’clock the skipper, in trying to take a special short-cut (overland) ran us aground.  He said it was by accident, but by a strange coincidence Alfred had the bacon in the pan, and we have a strong suspicion that as we had been up since 4 o’clock or thereabouts, the skipper thought it was time for breakfast, especially as it happened opposite a farm-house.

Wednesday June 24th 1914

Oulton Broad to Beccles

As we were enjoying the delicious marmalade, so thoughtfully provided for us by Mrs. Harold Fortt, it is suggested by ‘Erb that we should show our appreciation of her kindness by sending her a postcard to this effect.  This was promptly and unanimously agreed to, and ‘Erb was entrusted with this little commission, which he executed with care and despatch.

Our Skipper had moored us in a quiet corner of the Broad, and early in the morning Purser, Capt. Kettle, and Woody took a simultaneous header into the brackish water and enjoyed a swim, Bertlet snapping them from the bank.  ‘Erb had his “rent” settled successfully.  Purser and Woody searched the village for stores, but were not very successful, the “bag” consisting of three lettuces rather the worse for wear.  Will and Bertlet had quite a decent sail in the Jolly Boat, while “Pa” aired himself luxuriously on the counter digesting his “breaker” and the London Papers.  Some were fortunate in unexpectedly receiving letters, Oulton not being given to all as the place to have letters forwarded.

Pa seemed much worried with the flies while reading his papers.  They attacked him on all sides; one of a particularly dangerous and stinging nature persistently attacked his ears.  Amid shouts of laughter, it was discovered to be nothing more than a reed, deftly handled by the purser.

A stiff westerly breeze was now blowing, and it seemed to us as if our skipper would have some difficulty in getting out of harbour, there being so many craft hemming us in; however, after quanting to a buoy, sails were set, and we were soon tacking up the Broad on the way to Beccles.

The reach from Oulton to the Waveney was against the wind, and entailed considerable tacking which was cleverly done by our skipper, with the help of the majority of the crew.  Turning into the Waveney we passed a curious church, Burgh St. Peter, the tower of which is built something in the shape of a wedding-cake, of about four tiers which were square in shape, and partly covered with ivy.  “Duke” (Alfred) tried to impose upon our credulity by saying it was raised and lowered by means of a crank.

Lunch time having arrived, we quite anticipated Skipper would again see fit to try the overland route, as yesterday, the wind being a very tricky and blowing from all points of the Compass, but being anxious to reach Beccles, on account of the tide, he called upon the crew for assistance with the quants at which they were more or less successful.  Cheese and biscuits formed a light lunch which was much enjoyed on deck, between intervals of work, the Pot-boy mixing the Claret-cup.

3 A swing bridge having been successfully negotiated, under a fair wind, Beccles landing-stage was quickly reached, and our graceful craft safely moored near a “picturesque house.” The kettle was now boiling, and after tea company set out to view the town.  Beccles is an old-fashioned market-town, somewhat like Devizes, boasting a Mayor with Corporation, ancient “14.  Cent.” Church, Public Bath and Houses, etc.  It being early closing day we only saw about two people and a few children, and were glad to return to our floating home.

Purser and Capt. Kettle succeeded in knocking up the local Butcher, returning with a joint for dinner.

Fishing-lines were put out, Bertlet having the luck to get one perch and several bites.  ‘Erb and Harold set the eel-line, baited with cheese, and it was safely put out when the call came for dinner.  After doing full justice to a well-cooked repast, the rest of the evening was spent in a game of cards, supplemented by advice from lookers-on.

A more or less harmonious Glee on deck closed the day’s events, and soon Pa was driving the Pigs to market with his usual ability, broken at intervals by the croaking of the eels as they sucked the cheese off ‘Erb’s line.

 3 Curious thing happened here.  As we were toiling against a head-wind which made tacking very difficult, we discovered that a wherry, not very far behind, was sailing before a fair wind, and soon we found that we were between two entirely contrary breezes and hardly moving.  Much to the skipper’s delight the fair wind proved the stronger and carried us merrily to Beccles.

Thursday June 25th 1914

Beccles to Cantley

Turned out at 7.30 all having had a good night.  ‘Erb at once made tracks to examine his eel-line, and having caught one, it was handed over to Alfred to cook for breakfast, and was much enjoyed by Pa and ‘Erb.  The others all refused the delicate dish, much to ‘Erb’s disgust after all his toil and labour to give them the treat of their lives.  Paraded at 8.15 for a bathe in the local swimming place.  This was Pa’s first swim, and he took courage in both hands and was the first to make a plunge, and proved himself to be a most efficient swimmer.  The marvel is that he has hitherto so far restrained himself; however, now that he had tasted blood, or rather water, there will be no holding him back as opportunity arises.

Much refreshed, we returned to our comfortable quarters, and found that Alfred had the bacon ready.

 4 ‘Erb, having fishing on the brain, suggested (with his mouth full) half way through the meal that someone else should go and have a look at the rods which had been put out.  Bertlet, ever foremost, at once volunteered, and his shout denoted that something unforeseen had happened.  ‘Erb rushed to the rescue and found that a very small eel had been captured.

After this excitement, sails were set, and with a good breeze blowing in our favour we spun merrily along until we reached the turning to Oulton Broad.  From here we had to tack to St. Olaves where the mast was lowered before proceeding up the “New Cut”, where the wind was found to be dead against us.

The Skipper broke it as gently as he could in his usual lucid and fascinating way, that if we wished to get to the other end today we should have to jolly well get out and tow.  In our ignorance and also, like true born Britons, we all of us eagerly volunteered except Bertlet, who knew something, and he found, all at once, that the injury to his leg which happened, as recorded, several days ago,  was not sufficiently recovered to allow him to put any strain on it, however, as usual, he was very anxious to do something, “not too heavy”, so very kindly volunteered to take a hand at the tiller, which task he performed with merit.

“Pa” headed the procession with a small rope which was found to produce and nasty cutting sensation, and with this in hand we plodded on for two and three quarter weary miles.

The monotony, however, was relieved about half way by the Purser, who told one of his funny stories, something about gm-marning, Mrs. Brown – gm-marning, Mrs. Jones.  This completely took all the pulling power out of Pa; i.e. all that was left in him, and he doubled up on the bank.

Our heavy task over, we were refreshed by Bertlet’s commendations on our excellent pulling powers; but more particularly were we refreshed with a cup of tea, which was much more acceptable at the moment.

The wind having dropped almost entirely after tea, the rest of the journey to Cantley had to be quanted, passing on the way Reedham and a swing bridge.

“Pa” took hold of a quant for the first time, and we are glad to relate that he had half a dozen, more or less, successful shoves without going A over H into the water, but we all stood on guard to pull him out if the necessity arose.

Soon after, Alfred’s tin-whistle voice was heard calling us to dine.  Sausages proved to be the fare that the purser had provided, and he was kind enough to explain that we had been doing it a bit too heavy, and he doubted if the money would last out.  However, Bertlet said they quite came up to his expectations and went down to his requirements.

It was 9.15 when we arrived at our mooring at Cantley, and after pulling 2¾ miles and quanting 6, the whole crew were quite tired out and glad to get into their bunks rather earlier than usual.

 4 While the preparations for fishing were in progress, Pa and Jeff walked to Gillingham to view the old Norman Church, in which they were much interested.  They also visited a Roman Catholic Chapel which stood at the side of the road close by.

Friday June 26th 1914

Cantley – Norwich

A perfect morning – the best we have had.  ‘Erb as usual could not sleep owing, no doubt, to a disturbed condition of the mind, so at 5.30 a.m. he was on deck writing the previous day’s log, and trying to ensnare the wily perch – as usual without success.  It should here be noted that a good deal of time was also spent by him the previous day in “roughing out” his effort in the log-book, and this was evidently what was worrying him and robbing him of sleep.  Skipper started scrubbing the deck at 6.30 a.m., and after this it was useless to try and compose ourselves further.  Pa, however, continued to “drive them home” until a comparatively late hour.  His mind evidently is quite peaceful.

The bathers paraded on deck, but found the steps used as exit from the water had been taken away in the Jolly Boat by the Skipper, who had gone to fetch the morning’s milk.

On his return, the Purser and Pot-boy immediately dived in, and were followed, leisurely, by ‘Erb and ‘Enery VIII.  The conditions were perfect for bathing, and Pa, who had contented himself with a swill down on deck, was afterwards heard issuing lamentations that he had not indulged.  ‘Erb and ‘Enery had a sun-bathe on the cabin-top in a state of the utmost indecency, and were only induced to clothe themselves by the threats of the various photographers of the party.  Breakfast of bacon and boiled eggs were soon stowed away, the only incident of note being the fact that the eyes of two of the party were bigger than another part of their anatomy, and they were compelled to leave a large portion of their Grape-nuts and Cream on their plates to be used as ground-bait for the next boat that came to our moorings.

Breakfast over, Pa collected his Male-voice quartette party in the saloon, and although it was not yet 9 a.m.  passed round copies of “See the sun sinks in the West.” No sooner, however, had they started than Alfred’s curly head appeared through the sliding door of the cuddy, asking if anyone was in pain.  After this rude rebuff Pa took his party on deck where, after several false starts, they met with more success, this being attributed by Alfred to the absence of ‘Erb from the party.

It was considered necessary, at this point, that some of the party should shave, or we should not do any good to our credit at Norwich where we were to pick up supplies.

The wind was luckily in our favour, and we proceeded sailing on our way under the most perfect conditions, the Purser’s towel blowing overboard and being irrecoverable, and Bertram taking the tiller and meeting with the outspoken censure of the Skipper for keeping his hand on the rail that the mainsail swings on, and thereby laying himself open to a nasty accident.

Skip informed him that if he put his hand there again he would “hit his head off,” so thinking he would look “darned” funny without a head Bertram was most careful, and steered the rest of the way in most excellent fashion.

Coldham Hall, Brundall and Surlingham were passed in fine style, the breeze freshening and serving us well, and Whitlingham was reached at 12.30, this being our mooring place for Norwich.

It was discovered during the morning that the bottled cider had run out, but this did not trouble Enery VIII who, as long as he can get a small lemon and a teacup is perfectly happy.

On arrival at Whitlingham, we had our lunch, and caught the 1.47 train to Norwich.  The Post Office was our first call, to pick up letters, and every member of the crew was rewarded with one or more.  The Pot-boy was especially favoured, one of his letters reaching to almost the length, (by appearance) of a six-Shilling novel, and he had to be called away from the portico of the Post Office where he was reading it, to join the others who were tired of waiting.  We gathered that it must have contained the outpourings of “one heart that beats as two,” and so wisely said no more than was necessary.

The Cathedral was our next point of inspection, and it proved very interesting.  It is a very fine example, and we all paid and sixpence to be shown over the choir, transepts, apse, cloisters, chantries, etc. etc.  After a visit to a postcard-shop, and good-humoured banter between the proprietor and the crew, we separated somewhat, the Purser and Henri as usual bringing their thoughts back to the everyday requirements, and visiting the butcher, grocer, fishmonger, greengrocer etc.  and nearly breaking their necks to collect parcels and catch the 4.30 train back to Whitlingham.  The rest of the party (except Bertram who also caught the 4.30, and the Pot-boy who came back still earlier to read his epistle in the calm solitude and seclusion of our moorings) stayed in Norwich until the 6.45 train.

‘Erb seeing life 5, and Pa and Jeff (who are of a more Ecclesiastical turn of mind and the rest of the crew) returning to the cathedral 6 to hear the five o’clock service, which they said was very excellent – the service (0useley) and the anthem (Mendelssohn) being rendered entirely without accompaniment.

The Purser, Heneri, and the Pot-boy were then taken by that adept in the art of the managing the dinghy, (Bertram) for a trip, (he called it a sail) on the Thorpe reach.  It was intended to call and pick up bread and wet supplies, as Heneri had by this time nearly run of out of small lemons.  The wind however, was not kind to us, and the weeds too terrible for sculling, and altogether the trip while serving any useful purpose can not be said to have been exciting.  Our Skipper caught the 6 o’clock train home and left us to the tender mercies of Alfred.  It should be on record that the Pot-boy, who is very clever at his job, has developed into a splendid shot with a ginger beer cork, and has already scored twice by hitting ‘Erb on a crumpet and the Purser in the back of the neck.  He has only to hit one of the crew in the eye and he will get the sack immediately.  We have several likely applicants for his job at less salary.

Dinner was served at 7.30 and was much enjoyed, and after, ‘Erb, with the assistance of the Purser and ‘Eneri’ baited and put out his eel-line.  After a pleasant time on deck, employed in digesting the Bath papers received by post, and after a hearty laugh at ‘Erb who, having dropped the board on which he wound his eel-line into the water, set off in the Jolly-boat to get it, but forgot to untie one of its moorings. We adjourned to the saloon where Pa, ‘Eneri, Will and the Purser played Bridge, Pa and the Purser inflicting a severe defeat on the other two.  ‘Erb, who was affected with that restless disposition which has before been noted, started off, accompanied by Geoff, for a walk, but they lost their way coming back and were somewhat late.  Whitlingham is the prettiest scenery we have yet encountered, but after dark the mist rose and the smell was too awful for words.  It was the most disagreeable experience we have yet had and we shall be glad to move our moorings to more congenial surroundings.  Jeff proved equal to the occasion and gave us all something to burn to vapourise our cabins, which helped considerably.  After this all was peace.

 5 ‘Erb eventually informed us that the life he saw was mostly religious, as he wandered into a Roman catholic cathedral which had taken 30 years to build, and was only recently finished.  An old Custodian gave him a very interesting account of the place.  It was erected at the expense of the Duke of Norfolk, and is very beautiful in design.  The Custodian informed him that they get an average of over one convert by diem, in Norwich and district.

 6 It made interest some to know that the Canon in residence is the Rev. M.  Hay Aitken who held a mission in the Bath Abbey many years ago, also that the introit used in the Abbey was obtained from Norwich Cathedral; therefore the Bath Abbey and the Norwich Cathedral choristers are singing the same words and music simultaneously every Sunday morning before the service.

Continued on the next page ……